The Lac Rose in Senegal was one of the first things on my mind when I initially made the plan to visit.
We made our way, just as the early rays of the afternoon sun were starting to glisten all through. The kind of sun you can only brave with a positive mindset, an invigorating bottle of water and a 100% energy level. But even despite all that, I well wished I had a glass of “jus de bouye”, just like the one I had “Chez Bineta” when I first visited Ngor Island. I guess, only the thought of it was to suffice, for now.
The hour long ride from the city center on our way to the Lac Rose was not the least uninteresting. The streets were packed up with eager merchants displaying their products: local fabrics, shoes, arts and crafts, and of course, delicate senegalese spices. But before I could finish wondering why the hustle and the bustle, it all made sense to me: it was Saturday. Traditionally, Saturdays are market days. This snippet of traditional african customs made the journey even more interesting.
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Arriving at the Lac Rose
At last, we arrived! It was about time. I was very much ready to visit the “so spoken about” Lac Rose in Senegal. As soon as Ngor, our cab driver for the day parked, we were welcomed according to west african “business” customs: merchants and artists approaching, trying to sell you everything at once! Not at all a thing to be criticized, far from it: I would always commend the Senegalese entrepreneurial spirit. But if you are not careful, as I said in all my adventures in Senegal, these artists could ruthlessly make you spend every cent or note you could possibly have on you!
It did not take long before a guide approached us, and started to give us an instant historical tour of one of Senegal’s wonders. Having detected that we were tourists, he joyfully offered us overpriced tours. But this is all in the strategy: you set the bar high, and you get ready to bargain.
We reached a common agreement, and we even managed to get him to offer us drinks before our visit of the Lac Rose.
Where does the Rose (Pink) Color Come From?
Also known as Lac Retba as per its local name, the Lac Rose in Senegal owes its magenta color to the cyanobacterium Dunaliella Salina, a sea algae that produces a reddish pigment that helps it absorb light and thus, generate its ATP (energy currency of the cell). Moreover, the pigment helps the algae withstand the high salinity of the lake. And speaking of salinity, the Lac Rose in Senegal is a tremendous source of salt, which is a huge source of income for the people in the community.
Salt Harvesting at the Lac Rose in Senegal
“Salt harvesting used to be an activity done by men and women. But because of how physically demanding it is, nowadays, it is only done by men”; our tour guide explained. On a typical day, a salt harvester would go at sea twice. In the morning, and in the afternoon. He would depart early in the morning, park his boat in the middle of the sea, hook it to a wooden stick planted deep in the water and held together by the salt mass. “That is how they secure their boat while harvesting salt”, the tour guide explained.
They would draw salt from the bottom of the water until their canoe is filled to satisfaction. Then, they come out of the water, deposit the salt near the shore, purify it and add nutritious iodine it for consumption. Once the process is completed, they would sell each bag of salt for 1000 CFA (about 2 USD). But before braving the water, the salt harvesters would cover their skin with shea butter ointments. This would keep their skin moisturize and prevent damage.
Would have been Salty if I did not Visit the Lac Rose!
Our educative conversation on salt harvesting could not end better than seeing a regular salt harvester put in practice everything that we had just been thought. Mbaye, gracefully caught in his labour, allowed me to take his picture.
Visiting the Lac Rose in Senegal was far from just being just a sightseeing experience that would be “good to remember”. It was, like many of my travel experiences, a unique one because I was let in, in the way of life of the locals. I learned something that made this travel experience even more unique. They were not just proud to do their work, but also of the opportunity to share their expertise. And of course, I was proud to support local.
I did not regret the price and time invested in this sightseeing adventure. And I hope you won’t either, should you decide to visit the Lac Rose in Senegal one day.
Top 3 Tips if you’re planning to Visit the Lac Rose in Senegal:
- Hire a cab to get there: the Retba Lake is about an hour away from the city, Dakar. Book a cab (taxi) a day or two in advance, and negotiate the price. The cost would be around 20 000 – 23 000 CFA = 35 – 40 USD roundtrip.
- Plan your visit in the afternoon: the pinkish hues of the lake are even more beautiful then, since they magnify with the reflection of the sun.
- Negotiate the price of your canoe ride! Don’t settle or agree on the first price they propose you. On average, the cost is around 25 000 CFA = 43 USD for a 30mns canoe ride. You get to take pictures along the way, to talk to salt harvesters, and if you feel so inclined, swim in the lake!
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