Posted: Jan 12, 2019
Updated: Oct 11, 2024
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Visiting Ngor Island when you come to Dakar
The yellow taxi cab had just dropped us outside the boarding point in Ngor where we were supposed to depart for the island. The street was bustling with sellers and tourists alike. Afterall, visiting Ngor island is one of the best things to do in Dakar. “Venez, venez, suivez-moi!” A manly voice said, as we were making our way to the boarding point. “Vouz allez sur l’ile de Ngor? C’est par ici, les tickets”. We knew the way to get tickets (at least, my brother did), but followed him by courtesy. He kept on chatting sympathetically, and we went along with his calculated kindness.
Ngor Island: Getting to Know the Locals
His name was Moussa. He was from the village of Ngor, born and raised. He had lived there all his life, and worked (during the daytime) as a tour guide for the island. And even though we ignored all his attempts to try to sell us his services, I appreciated his persistence and his multi-level dynamism. First, he insisted that we should visit the village of Ngor before boarding the boat /ferry to the island. Second, he convinced us to take the ferry ($10 USD) instead of the boat ($2 USD). Certainly, the ferry was faster and more private, but the main reason we folded was because of how determined he was. But I did not hold him against him. He was making his living, just like any “sales person” would.
Life jackets were mandatory for the trip. Even though the boat ride was only 5 minutes, Moussa insisted that I wore one.
Visiting Ngor island was never one of the main attractions or things to do in Senegal. However, it became more famous when a sequence of the documentary Endless Summer interpreted by surf legend Robert August) was filmed in 1964. But this is not surprising, because Ngor island is a key destination for surfers (beginners and amateurs alike). The Ngor Island surf camp was fully occupied during our visit there, and we could see surfers walking on the beach with their boards prepared to face the beautiful waves.
Ngor Island, Senegal’s Best Kept Secret
Ngor island Dakar shares a lot of similarities with the other 3 islands in Senegal, but more specifically, Gorée island: the nomenclature of street signs and the architecture of the roads and houses are undeniable reminders of the French colonial influence. However, one of the things that make Ngor island such a relaxing haven for tourists and locals is the fact that there is no electricity. This is also why it is listed as one of the best things to do in Senegal. Ngor inhabitants solely rely on solar panels. (And it is a good thing, since it is almost always sunny in Senegal). The safe harbor that the island creates is an attraction for everyone, including celebrities such as Akon and the late France Gall who made it, in a way, their home away from home.
We happily continued our journey through this narrow-walled piece of heaven, stopping along the way at what we considered to be the most picturesque sights.
Moussa continued with the narrative, telling us about the three key areas of the island.
Ngor Island Dakar: History behind Beauty
Learning about the history of Ngor Island was delightful. The island was once inhabited, and the villagers of Ngor used to crossed the bay to graze their sheep and cultivate millet. But in the early 50s, the inhabitants of Dakar started to travel more and more to the island, where they would organize pic-nics. In no time, they created small island houses. Today, if you want to spend the night at Ngor island, you can do so by renting a room at one of the local prices. The prices vary according to the season. But if you contact me, I will definitely help you get the best deals!
Then, we crossed an area that was said to be the site of military training for new and existing army recruits. “They came here for their strength and conditioning training. Some of them did not know how to swim. So they also came here to learn how to swim”, Moussa knowledgeably explained.
La “Place des Amoureux” (The Lovers Spot), marked the last segment of our trip to Ngor Island. “Why is it called as such?” I asked Moussa. He explained that lovers used to spend a lot of time there, at least when he was younger. Since then, the beach front (of that specific area) kept its name and everyone knows it as “Place des Amoureux”. An absolutely necessary stop when visiting Ngor Island.
“Did you use to see them? I asked. Yes, he replied. And they would do things”. “What things? I inquired. Moussa laughed back at me, shook his head and walked away. But my brother stuck around. I wanted a picture, afterall.
As we continued visiting Ngor island, we could appreciate the uniqueness of African art displays. Certainly, going an African Art Museum was on the top of my list of things to do in Senegal, and this felt like just a taste.
Local artisans also had stalls of clothes and jewelry on display and for purchase, for those who would want to grab a locally made souvenirwhen visiting Ngor island in Senegal.
A Lesson Learned: One of Hardwork and Persistence
This kind of entrepreneurial spirit (of the local Senegalese/African by extension) was further epitomized by a jewelry seller we encountered. Looking at me with a smile, she said: “Look at the jewelry, it’s so beautiful”! “No, thanks, I don’t want to buy”. I kindly responded. In reality, I truly did not want to purchase it simply because I had plans of heading to the market during my stay in Dakar. But she insisted. “You can still look, only for the pleasure of your eyes!”. I glanced at her and smiled. Her sales pitch was on point. With not much (more) convincing, my brother indulged. Afterall, it is important to support local. For them, it is their livelihood, so even a small purchase goes a long way. So think about it, when you think about coming to Senegal and visiting Ngor island (or any other tourist site).
The day was coming to an end, and so was our visit of Ngor Island. We saw no other way to end this soul-inspiring day than to share a meal “Chez Bineta”. Bineta cooks strictly local. I picked the traditional thiéboudiène (thiéboudienne/ceebu jën ). It is one of the dishes you need to try, definitely one of the things to do in Senegal. And Bineta does it just like a real local. Here’s another amazing reason for visiting Ngor Island.
We complemented our meals with generously poured glasses of sorrel (reddish glass, locally called “Bissap”) and juice made from “pain de singe” (white glass, locally known as “Baobab”. And the glass in the middle? Just an innovative (and extremely refreshing) mixture of both.
I hope this experience made you travel with me to Ngor Island. This island is nothing like the Caribbean islands I have visited in the past. I can’t wait for you to experience this, and I hope you will think about visiting Ngor Island soon!
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